wenaIf you ask me what my favorite places were while visiting Azerbaijan, without a doubt, it’s The Caucasus mountain – Xinaliq (Khinaluag) and Laza. Something about these villages makes them stand out from all my other favorite places throughout my visit to this country. Unfortunately, only a few tourists consider this part of Azerbaijan, unlike the northwest part of the country. But before we learn how to visit Xinaliq and Laza, let’s learn a little about these two beautiful remote places in Azerbaijan.
Xinaliq and Laza are both situated in the northeast of the country near the border of Russia. They are known for their unique culture and stunning scenery, but each place has its own vibe.
Xinaliq is one of the ancient villages in Azerbaijan, dating back to 5,000 years. It sits at an elevation of 2,350 meters above sea level, making it one of the highest villages in Europe.
This village has preserved its language (called Ketch) and tradition that cannot be found anywhere in the world. According to local legends, the residents claimed to be the descendants of biblical Noah. Visitors can experience the unique setting of this village by hiking in the mountains, visiting the museum, or simply enjoying the views from one of the village’s many rooftops.
Laza, by contrast, is a much larger village that has become a popular tourist destination. While it still retains some of its traditional characteristics, it’s more commercialized than Khinaluag.
Similar to Xinaliq, this village is home to an ethnic called Lezgins or leks, whose history is also connected with Caucasus Albania. Local people in Laza communicate with their native Lezgian language but also speak Azerbaijani. You will love this charming village if you’re a nature lover and a hiker. It has a number of hiking trails and green spaces where you can explore.
How to Get to Laza and Xinaliq from Baku
Laza and Xinaliq are both located Quba region; therefore, your journey will start from Baku to Quba. The best and cheapest way to get to Quba is by taking the bus.
First, head to Baku International Bus Terminal (Avtovagzal) to get your bus. You can buy your ticket straight to the ticket booth for 4 AZN per person. Look out for buses that show Quba (or Qusar) on their signage; these will drop you in Quba. Ensure to inform the driver; otherwise, the bus will go straight to Qusar. Unless your first plan is to start in Laza, then I highly recommend getting off from Qusar.
Several buses run daily to Quba – Qusar starting from 7:30 am, and the journey takes 2 hours. Check out their bus terminal website for the latest updated schedules.
Alternatively, you can arrange a taxi to take you directly to Quba with a price starting from 50 azn. Also, there is a shared taxi near the bus terminal, but since I took the local bus, I have no information about their prices. But, for sure, it will be a reasonable price!
From Quba to Xinaliq and Laza
Depending on your spare time, you can go straight to Xinaliq or Laza via taxi from the bus stop. Or to stay a night in Quba and explore both villages the next day.
Once I arrived in Quba, a random taxi driver approached me when I stepped out of the bus. He asked if I was going to Xinaliq and then tried to charge me 100 AZN for the roundtrip. So if you arrange your transportation from a regular taxi driver at the bus stop, they probably will charge you the same.
In my case, I stayed overnight in Quba and arranged my transportation from my accommodation in Hostel Elvin for 65 AZN. At first, they told me it would cost 140 AZN (one day in Xinaliq and the next day in Laza). But I asked them if I could join another guest to split the cost. Luckily, one person agreed, so we got the deal!
If you plan to stay a night in Xinaliq and look for a one-way trip, it will cost you 40-50 azn. But remember that once there, finding your way back to Quba can be difficult due to the lack of transportation options available within the village.
For those with limited time but want to explore The Caucasus Mountain, I recommend taking an organized tour from Baku with Quba Khinaliq from Baku Group Tour. This will let you visit Quba and Xinaliq (except Laza) without too much hassle, costing you 60 USD per person.
How many days to spend in Xinaliq or Laza
It depends on what you’re looking for in your experience. When I planned my trip to Azerbaijan, the question of how long each village would be worth stayed on my mind. But, after considering how much time I’ll have, spending an overnight in each village would be too much of a burden on me. And that’s how I ended up spending my days Laza over Xinaliq.
If you’re planning on hiking, I recommend spending an overnight stay in Laza. You can let your driver know that you will be staying in Laza, and he will happily drop you off at any guesthouse there for you.
Alternatively, you can easily visit both villages a day. I highly recommend spending at least 2 hours exploring each village and then going back to Quba to spend the night.
Where to Stay
When it comes to accommodation in Xinaliq, staying with a local family is a great way to get an authentic experience of life in this remote village. Once you’re there, the locals offer to let visitors stay for 30 AZN per night and share their home-cooked meals.
If you want some comfortable accommodation, you can stay at Ecomama in Khinalig Guest House, which is around 400 meters from the village. The guest house offers free wifi, bed linen, and a sitting area with satellite TV.
For Laza, there are few guest house options available. However, it is difficult to make online reservations. I personally stayed in Laza Guest House, owned by Mr. Khalid, and I highly recommend staying in this guest house. They have available self-contained houses for solo and a couple starting from 30 AZN per night with a double bed, bathroom, shower, water heater, and kitchen.
When you arrive in Laza, a house with the sign “MARKET LAZA” will be at the entrance of the village. The houses behind the market are owned by Mr. Khalid and his son Ramid (who both speaks decent English). Press the doorbell from the market, and they will immediately come out to greet you.
What to do and what to expect
When visiting a new place, it’s always important to be prepared. Knowing what to do and what to expect can make your trip much smoother. Here are some guides on what to expect when you visit Xinaliq and Laza and my personal experience to help you decide.
Xinaliq Village
Getting to Xinaliq is half the fun, as the journey takes you through some of the most stunning scenery in the country. Once we are out of Quba, the roads start to get narrow and winding; and if I’m being honest, it’s not for the faint of heart – so be prepared. If you have not experienced driving on this kind of road, I would not recommend driving up to Xinaliq.
As we got closer to the village, we were surrounded by soaring mountains and pristine rivers. We had a couple of stops to take photos of the stunning views along the way. Once we arrived in the village, the driver gave us half a day to explore the village. As we stepped out of the car, this little girl came up to me and tried selling her souvenirs. Despite not buying anything from her, she was so kind to show me around.
As I walk around, I felt the warmth and welcome in the air. There’s a calming vibe here, and I immediately feel at ease. The locals were so hospitable and friendly despite the language barrier.
Inside the village, there is one museum which basically one large room filled with memorabilia and information about the village; worth a quick visit. You can also do horse riding and trekking – be sure to hike all the way up for a rewarding view.
Laza – Qusar
If you are wondering why I always emphasize Laza-Qusar, it’s because there’s another town called Laza, located in Gabala. I almost got my plan ruined by not being aware of this, so it’s good to know before you plan.
Like Xinaliq, the scenery on the way to Laza is breathtaking! This village is very popular with local tourists due to its high cliffs and number of waterfalls.
When I arrived in Laza, I wasn’t sure what to expect. But I fell in love from the moment I stepped foot into this charming village. The stunning views of the Caucasus Mountains left me breathless. But the warmth and hospitality of the locals, especially my host, truly captured my heart. I extended my stay immediately after feeling at home and even celebrated my birthday with them.
There are a number of trails you can follow depending on your fitness level. The most popular one is the Laza – Kuzun Trail, which I planned to do, but I couldn’t make it happen due to heavy rain. Instead, I walk around the village to the waterfalls and their surroundings. There is nothing much to see in the village, to be honest, but if you want to have some downtime, then this place is for you.
Cost to visit Xinaliq and Laza
Although these remote villages have limited budget-friendly options, finding affordable accommodation and transportation is possible.
Accommodation
Most homestays in both villages, for the most part, cost 30 azn per night. If you can share your room with someone, it will be cheaper. I stayed in Laza Guest House for 30 azn per night in a twin-sharing room with 3 meals a day. But this varies depending on the time of your visit, whether peak or low season.
Food
Your local host will normally offer 10 azn per meal, but you have to inform them ahead of time. It can be cheaper if you buy at the local supermarket and prepare your own food.
Transportation
This is probably the most expensive of your trip. It will cost you 140 AZN roundtrip for both places. But, as I did, you can ask your host to join another guest to split the cost. If you’re spending the night in Laza, you can ask your host about the transportation back to the city center (Qusar). I arranged mine with Mr. Khalid, and he dropped me off at the Qusar bus station for 20 AZN.
Activities
If you are interested in entering the museum in Xinaliq, it costs 2 AZN. And for the most part, you will spend nothing on activities.
Best time to visit Xinaliq and Laza
If you enjoy warm weather, you may want to visit during summer. However, autumn or spring may be ideal if you prefer cooler temperatures. In general, the months of June to September tend to be busiest in terms of tourism, so if you want to avoid crowds, you may want to visit outside this peak season.
Keep in mind that weather can be unpredictable in these mountainous regions, so it is always a good idea to check the forecast before making travel plans.
What to bring
Be sure to pack comfortable shoes, preferably hiking shoes, as you will be doing a lot of walking. Pack clothes suitable for warm and cool weather, as the temperature can vary greatly depending on the time of year.
It’s also a good idea to bring along some food and snacks from Quba, as there is a limited market in the villages. If you are uncomfortable drinking tap water, you must also bring bottled water. But please carry the empty bottles with you and dispose of them properly.
Bring basic toiletries, including sunscreen and toilet paper – the toilet outside is most likely without toilet paper. Also, medicine if you need them.
Lastly, make sure to take enough money to pay for your accommodation, food, and activities – there are no available ATMs in these villages.
Safety to visit Xinaliq and Laza
When it comes to safety, both villages are generally safe. As a female solo traveler, I never felt unsafe while exploring Khinaluag and during my three days stay in Laza. Locals are very friendly and welcoming towards visitors.
Of course, taking precautions when traveling to new places is always important.
Things to know before your visit to Xinaliq and Laza
Xinaliq and Laza offer some of the most beautiful scenery in Azerbaijan and a taste of traditional hospitality. Here are a few guides to make the most of your time.
- Communication can be a challenge as most people do not speak English. Learn a few key phrases in Azerbaijan before you go. Google translate will be your friend, so make sure to use it. This will help you connect with the locals and understand the culture.
- If you want to ask for some information, don’t feel bad if they avoid you. Most of the locals in these villages don’t understand and speak English, so they may seem unresponsive. You can always look around to ask someone else; others can speak little English.
- Try to be as flexible as possible when it comes to your itinerary. The scenery in both villages is so stunning that it’s easy to spend hours just wandering around. It happens to me! I planned to stay only one night but spent three days in Laza.
- Make the most of local hospitality. They are incredibly friendly and welcoming. Don’t be afraid to accept their hospitality, especially when walking around the villages. Whether it’s an offer of food or tea, these gestures make traveling to this region so special. Don’t be afraid to approach them and strike up a conversation.
Xinaliq and Laza are two of Azerbaijan’s best-kept secrets. If you’re looking for an authentic travel experience to disconnect from the outside world and connect with nature and friendly locals, add these villages to your travel list! I hope this travel guide will help you decide to visit Xinaliq and Laza.
To know more about Azerbaijan, don’t forget to check out my other post.
5 Reasons Why You Need to Visit Azerbaijan
Things to do in Baku in 3 days